What is the Speciality of Bomkai Sarees?

Bomkai, also known as Sonepuri, is a unique textile that is produced by combining two very popular elements of the Orissa textile industry. This fabric is created using an extra weft technique on a pit loom, and combines the techniques of Ikat and embroidery. The borders of the fabric often feature contrasting colors, while the pallus are decorated with intricate thread work. The motifs on the Bomkai are inspired by nature and tribal art, giving the saree an appealing look that is well-suited for the upper class. Bomkai sarees are available in both cotton and silk materials.

The History and Evolution of Bomkai Sarees in Orissa, India

 

Bomkai sarees have a rich history that dates back to the 8th century in Orissa, India. The technique of weaving Bomkai sarees has been passed down through generations, and is believed to have originated in a village called Bomkai in the Ganjam district of Orissa. Initially, Bomkai sarees were made only with cotton yarn and were worn by the locals as a daily wear. However, with the advent of the silk industry in Orissa, Bomkai sarees started being woven with silk yarn as well, giving them a more luxurious look.

 

Bomkai sarees gained popularity in the 20th century when they were promoted by the Handloom Development Corporation of Orissa. The sarees were showcased in various exhibitions and were well-received by the public, leading to an increase in demand. Today, Bomkai sarees are not only worn by locals but also by people all over India and the world. The intricate thread work and unique motifs on the sarees have made them a popular choice for weddings and other formal events. Despite the popularity, Bomkai sarees continue to be woven using traditional techniques and remain an important part of the Orissa textile industry.

 

Fabrics of Bomkai

 

Bomkai sarees are available in both cotton and silk fabrics. The cotton yarn used in the sarees is locally sourced, while the silk yarn is typically sourced from other parts of India. Both cotton and silk yarns are woven on a pit loom using an extra weft technique, which gives the sarees their unique texture and design. The choice of fabric used in a Bomkai saree can vary depending on the occasion and personal preference, with silk sarees being more commonly worn for formal events and cotton sarees being worn for daily wear.

 

Varieties

 

There are several varieties of Bomkai sarees, including:

 

● Pasapalli Bomkai Saree: This type of saree has a checkered pattern in the body and border, with traditional motifs woven in the pallu.

● Bichitrapuri Bomkai Saree: This saree has a unique design, with the borders and pallu featuring different motifs and colors.

 

● Sonepuri Bomkai Saree: This saree has a simple design, with small motifs woven in the body and borders, and a plain or striped pallu.

 

● Subarna Patta Bomkai Saree: This saree features a golden thread or zari woven into the border and pallu, giving it a rich and elegant look.

 

● Bapta Bomkai Saree: This type of saree has a striped design in the body and border, with small motifs woven in the pallu.

 

Each variety of Bomkai saree has its own unique characteristics and beauty, and they are all highly valued for their intricate designs and skilled craftsmanship.

 

Themes and Patterns

 

The motifs found in Bomkai sarees are derived from various sources, including nature, mythology, and traditional tribal art. Nature-inspired motifs such as floral and animal motifs are commonly found in Bomkai sarees. The lotus, for example, is a popular floral motif that symbolizes purity and enlightenment in Hinduism, while the peacock motif represents beauty, grace, and spirituality. Similarly, elephant motifs symbolize good luck, prosperity, and strength.

Mythological motifs, such as those depicting Radha-Krishna, Ganesha, and Durga, are often featured in Bomkai sarees. These motifs are inspired by Hindu mythology and are believed to bring good luck and blessings to the wearer. Tribal motifs found in Bomkai sarees are inspired by the rich cultural heritage of Odisha's tribal communities. The motifs often depict the traditional art and cultural elements of the tribes, and are woven into the saree using vibrant colors and intricate patterns.

 

● Animal and Bird Motifs: Bomkai sarees often feature motifs of animals and birds such as elephants, peacocks, and parrots. These motifs are typically woven into the pallu and borders of the saree.

 

● Floral Motifs: Bomkai sarees also feature intricate floral motifs such as lotus, jasmine, and rose. These motifs are often woven into the body and borders of the saree.

 

● Geometric Designs: Bomkai sarees may also have geometric patterns such as checks, stripes, and squares. These designs are often found in the body and borders of the saree.

 

 

● Mythological Motifs: Some Bomkai sarees also feature motifs from Hindu mythology such as Radha-Krishna, Ganesha, and Durga. These motifs are often found in the pallu and borders of the saree.

 

● Tribal Motifs: Tribal art and motifs are also popular in Bomkai sarees. These motifs are typically woven into the borders and pallu of the saree and often depict the cultural and traditional elements of the tribal community.

 

Bandha - A Method of Ikat for creating Bomkai

 

In Odisha, the term "Bandha" refers to the method of "Ikat," which is used to create "Bomkai" sarees through hand-weaving. Before weaving, the threads are colored using the Ikat system. The "warp" threads are elongated and inserted perpendicularly into the handloom, while the "weft" cords, which are rolled onto a shuttle, are inserted parallel to create the desired designs. The weft cords are commonly resist-dyed, and in the double-ikat system, both warp and weft are resist-dyed to create similar patterns on either side of the cloth.

 

The "Jalaa" technique, an alternative to the Jacquard machine, is used to create the Ikat design. The sarees feature pastel-colored bodies, beaded borders, Ikat designs, and uneven temple designs that flow along the border. The brand is characterized by lively and contrasting color combinations on the border, deep designs on the pallu, and the use of the four primary colors used to decorate Lord Jagannath at the Jagannath Puri temple. The sarees also have double-colored borders and dense-colored middle parts. The uneven temple design on the saree borders is a distinctive feature, along with other common images such as earthen pots, flower designs, diamond shapes, and beads. Hand-weaving is used to create the Bomkai designs, with silver or gold cords used, and traditional tribal designs such as flowers, geometric designs, fish, lotus, tortoise, and hourglass-shaped drums used for the saree's pallu.

 

How are Patola and Bomkai Different?

 

Patola and Bomkai are two different types of sarees from different regions in India. Patola sarees are from Gujarat, while Bomkai sarees are from Odisha.

 

One of the key differences between Patola and Bomkai sarees is their weaving technique. Patola sarees are created using the double ikat technique, where both the warp and weft threads are resist-dyed before weaving. This process is intricate and time-consuming, and it results in the saree having identical designs on both sides. In contrast, Bomkai sarees are made using the single ikat technique, where only the warp or weft threads are resist-dyed. This makes the weaving process simpler and faster, but the designs on the saree will not be identical on both sides.

 

Another difference is in their motifs and designs. Patola sarees are known for their complex geometric patterns and vibrant colors, while Bomkai sarees often feature traditional tribal designs like flowers, geometric shapes, and animals. Bomkai sarees also have distinct borders with uneven temple designs, while Patola sarees often feature intricate borders and pallus with detailed designs.

 

In terms of price, Patola sarees are generally more expensive due to their intricate and time-consuming weaving process and the use of high-quality silk. Bomkai sarees, on the other hand, are relatively affordable and accessible to a wider range of customers.

 

Key Takeaways

 

1. Bomkai sarees are a type of handloom saree from Odisha, India.

 

2. They are created using the single ikat weaving technique, which involves resist-dyeing either the warp or weft threads before weaving.

 

3. Bomkai sarees often feature traditional tribal motifs like flowers, geometric shapes, and animals.

 

4. They have distinct borders with uneven temple designs and are known for their contrasting color combinations.

 

5. Bomkai sarees are relatively affordable compared to other types of handloom sarees and are accessible to a wider range of customers.